A Visit to Hardwick Hall

This weekend me and my companion (called Mr Bingley from here on in) decided to head down to Derbyshire to visit Hardwick Hall.

This visit was inspired by my recent reading of Phillipa Gregory’s novel ‘The Other Queen’ about the Earl of Shrewsbury and his formidable wife Bess of Hardwick's care of the captive Mary Queen of Scots. The book’s pace is a slow trudge and nothing really happens but it did introduce me to a fascinating Elizabethan lady; Bess of Hardwick (pictured).

I was expecting an unassuming country manor but instead was met by a glorious Elizabethan statement in fashion and flamboyance.

Pictured: New Hardwick Hall

Instead of just one house there was a new hall and an old hall, some compact but impressive gardens and a number of parkland walks with fabulous views of the valley (and the M1)…

Remember if you aren’t a member of the National Trust or English Heritage then you will need to buy extra tickets for the Old Hall. I felt this was extremely cheeky but they provide you with a free audio tour and the views and existing plasterwork are stunning.

So to the facts and figures:

Getting there:

Easy peasy, straight off the M1 at Junction 29 and well signposted.

Information:

Free audio tours at the old hall and guide books and audio tours available at a small price at the new hall. We didn’t take these – I like to enjoy the atmosphere of the house instead of listening to some hoarse woman harping in my ear about medieval toilet facilities. Mr Bingley nods in agreement.

There are seminars and talks throughout each day subject to ticket availability and a number of events throughout the season. You might be interested in the Stone Carving Days and ‘Painting Pebbles and Pots’ event. I wasn't;  I thought they sounded awfully drab but the Murder Mystery night with a themed three course meal and Food Market celebrating local Derbyshire produce sounded brilliant. 

Pictured: Remaining plasterwork in Old Hall

Best Bits:

Pictured: Tapestries in the New Hall

The ‘Fifty Shades of Bluey Grey’ leaflet about the more adult themes in the house’s tapestries was a good find. Mr Bingley evidently enjoyed these and was particularly over-zealous in seeking them out; well-endowed women being groped by lascivious rogues seemed to be a common theme. Tearing Mr Bingley away from these to instead inspect Turkish carpets proved especially difficult.

Worst Bits:

Having to pay extra for the Old Hall was a disappointment. If you are not a member of the National Trust or English Heritage and are desperate to visit this interesting ruin then the excursion could prove rather expensive.

Kids:

Yes, sadly there were a number of them present. However there was so much for them to do in each room and in the gardens that they didn't irritate me in the slightest.

There was a children’s treasure hunt throughout the house and gardens and a box of children’s activities in every room. These included quick quizzes about the house and its inhabitants, dressing up boxes to play lord and lady of the manor and even a ‘Make a Mud pie’ competition outside.

The property also provides baby slings and carrying seats for infants as well as baby changing and feeding facilities including bottle warming.

Facilities:

There was a garden centre, shop and barn café which stocked the usual delectable cakes and pastries. The shop was also filled with local meat and dairy products as well as the usual scrummy National Trust biscuits and chutneys.

Interesting Fact:

Hardwick Hall featured in the Harry Potter films as Draco Malfoy’s home, Malfoy Manor. Fascinating…

Not only was it featured in the Harry Potter films but one of the Dukes (I forget which one) used the Long Gallery on the top floor for dog racing. We were told that historians know this as a dark brown stain in the corner of the room was testament to dog’s cocking their legs post-race.

Mr Bingley found this far more fascinating than its film credentials and spent the next twenty minutes searching for the afore-mentioned stain.

Overall:

Pictured: Portrait of Elizabeth I

We had a really great day, the architecture of the house is striking and the wealth of Bess the original owner is apparent in the plasterwork, tapestries, fireplaces and the almost floor to ceiling windows, leading to the local Tudor rhyme ‘Hardwick Hall more glass than wall.’ They also have an excellent art collection and the portrait of Queen Elizabeth was a great surprise as it’s one we had never seen before.

The activities for the kids were exceptional and as a family day out I just couldn’t fault it. Plus if you are making a weekend of it then it’s only a short drive to Chatsworth, Bolsover Castle, Sherwood Forest and a walk to another National Trust property, Stainsby Mill.

All in all a great place to take the family or friends for a sight-seeing day and plenty to do over a long weekend stay. I will definitely be back at some point in the future to take in the parkland walks but I think I’ll wait for some warmer weather.

Mr Bingley’s Rating: 8.5/10