Montacute House: Somerset Daytrip

Recently Mr Bingley and I were staying with my parents on the south coast in Dorset. A gorgeous place to visit and if you’re down there you could always nip down to Durdle Door mentioned in the previous ‘Special Places’ post.

After a few days of catching up with old friends we felt it best to get out in the sunshine and fresh air. This was a refreshing change from spending days cooped up inside eating left over apple crumble from numerous family get-togethers.

We decided to visit Montacute House in the quintessential rural village of Montacute in Somerset. Now I have visited this house a number of times but Mr Bingley has only visited the gardens. Although built in the Jacobean era, like Hardwick Hall it has that commanding Elizabethan architecture, huge windows, far reaching views and imposing symmetry.

Getting there:

Fairly straightforward as it’s only about 30 minutes off the motorway. From either direction you need to be on the M5 as far as Taunton. From here take the A303 towards Yeovil and then the A3088 into Montacute. From here the signs will be very straight forward.

Information:

There are daily talks about the history of Montacute House, it’s milestones and it’s owners which are well worth joining but the regular talks were rather limited to be honest.

However far more exciting are the numbers of concerts and theatre groups that perform at this fabulous house as well as the classic BMW rally on the 12^th May. A definite date for the diary is the 21^st June as a visiting theatre company will be staging a Sherlock Holmes mystery within the house. The show will encompass plenty of live music and audience interaction for all ages and if I lived closer I’d be getting a ticket. Mr Bingley was rather taken with this as he fancies himself as a bit of a sleuth even if it’s just discussing Sunday night’s Silent Witness.

I completely agreed, it sounded great but I was looking forward to something a little different; Back to the 80s and 90s is a concert in the garden on 20^th July. You can set up camp on the lawn with a picnic and a few friends whilst listening to your favourites from the past few decades. I’ve already started digging out my Chumbawamba cassette...

Best Bits:

Pictured: A portrait of the
indomitable Bess of Hardwick

Montacute House has a long-standing partnership with the National Portrait Gallery and is home to a number of paintings from the 15^th to 17^th centuries.

Montacute House is home to the longest ‘Long Gallery’ in the UK, a feature that was very popular in Elizabethan England. The gallery houses these exquisite paintings and it makes a real feature especially with the incredible views reaching over the garden and park beyond.

I managed to find a few paintings of Robert Dudley, my absolute favourite Renaissance cad; a lothario and dastardly scoundrel in every sense of the word! If you don’t know much about him then it’s definitely worth hunting down some information about his plotting and scheming.

There was also an extremely precious portrait of James 1 by John de Critz in the gallery. It was bought by the National Trust in 2011 and up until recently has been in restoration. The intricate detail in the painting is astounding, down to the buttons and pearls on his jacket.

Whilst I was walking down the gallery in a trance and imagining being whisked away by Robert ‘Casanova’ Dudley himself Mr Bingley was rather glumly shuffling along and scuffing his shoes.

Art is not his thing. Renaissance art is even less of his thing. For Mr Bingley this part of the trip was thoroughly unenjoyable, especially as I take at least 5 minutes to scrutinise each art piece.

This was one of my favourite parts of the house and if you are also a fan of Renaissance architecture and paintings then Montacute House is truly unmissable.

The gardens are also exceptional; there are fountains, secret gardens, concealed passages, hidden ponds and a couple of small mazes of wobbly

Pictured: Montacute's famous
          wobbly hedges

hedges (very small but brilliant fun for children who want to get lost!). We spent a good hour exploring the garden and that’s without stepping into the glorious parkland beyond.

After the dignified silence of the art gallery Mr Bingley perked up and I found him quite excited at the prospect of getting outside and investigating the orangery, garden pavilions and hidden passageways.

The recently restored orangery was truly exquisite, filled with orange and lemon trees and heated to the extent that tulips were coming into flower when there was still snow on the lawns outside. If you are remotely interested in gardening and historical fiction then I highly recommend reading Phillipa Gregory’s ‘VirginEarth’ or ‘Earthly Joys.' I tend to think of the gardens and selected flora at these houses as an extension of wealth; the trouble people took to grow exotic new plants without today’s mod cons is astonishing.

Mr Bingley and I also loved the sculptures surrounding the top storey of the house. We thought they were just random statues but soon discovered they were the ‘NineWorthies.’ Being the unrefined simpletons that we are, neither Mr Bingley or I had ever heard of this collection of chivalric characters. Don’t panic, we had heard of some of them, Julius Caesar and King Arthur for instance; we are not completely hopeless.

Worst Bits:

If art and paintings aren’t for you then the house, especially the top floors are not going to be of much interest. They are not highly furnished as they are all about a clean and simple background for the artwork. Mr Bingley found this boring and to be honest we had to escape before I’d examined everything for fear of him having a tantrum and embarrassing himself.

The house interior also wasn’t up to much. Some of the furniture was beautiful but I can’t help comparing it to Hardwick Hall which was magnificent. I got the impression that the National Trust had filled it with some stock furniture rather than trying to honestly recreate its atmosphere.

A lot more could also have been done to build interest around the Phelps family who built and lived in Montacute House. There were some wonderful little anecdotes but you had to keep asking attendants in order to discover them; these could really have been printed out or made more clear.

Pictured: The stained glass windows and heraldry in the Great Hall

Kids:

In the garden I can imagine that children would be happy for hours; playing hide and seek amongst the wobbly hedges, making dens and climbing huge felled trees in the park. However this fun depends upon your children having a sharp imagination. If they don’t and require a little more stimulation then it could be a struggle. The house could have made some sort of treasure hunt or interactive game to keep less imaginative children occupied and entertained (especially considering it was Easter weekend!).

Unless your children are complete cherubs then keeping them quiet and sane inside the house is going to be tough. There is very little to entertain children within the walls and a simple quiz would really help to alleviate their boredom.

I would definitely suggest taking the children to explore the gardens but I probably wouldn’t bother with the house unless they had a themed ‘what’s on’ event which was child friendly.

Facilities:

There was the usual gift shop and café selling locally produced food and locally reared meal and the good quality homeware we are used to with the National Trust.

There were also excellent disabled facilities, with wheelchairs and braille guides available although on a first come and first served basis as well as large print booklets in each room. The majority of the garden was accessible with ramps for easy access and with level access to the café and shop including a disabled toilet near the entrance. Sadly only the lower floors of the house were accessible for wheelchair users which is a shame when the National Portrait Gallery is located on the top floor.

Montacute House is also very close to a number of other smaller National Trust properties including Barrington Court and Lytes Cary Manor. All three are made of the distinctive yellow ‘hamstone’ that is so popular in this part of the world.

You could also visit picturesque Ham Hill in the nearby village of Stoke sub Hamden. This is an Iron Age hill fort with glorious views and still has the remains of the ‘hamstone' quarry. Again if you have children then this could be another great place for them to explore– take the bikes and they will be able to spend hours letting off steam.

Interesting Fact: 

Sir Edward Phelps the original owner of the house became Speaker in the House of Commons in 1604 and even made the opening speech for the prosecution at the trial of Guy Fawkes.

Overall:

It is a beautiful house from the outside and from the inside is equally stunning but the lack of full furnishings means it does have a slightly empty and ‘unlived in’ feel compared to the rich and opulent interiors at Hardwick. The gardens in my opinion however are far superior to those at Hardwick and they open up onto beautiful parkland beyond which is rich with dens and hiding places for young children and adults (!) to explore.

Pictured: Cross-eyed King Stephen

If art is a keen interest then the gallery is unmissable and even those less interested can’t help but be entertained by the selection of royal portraits which feature cross- eyed kings including the rather crazed looking King Stephen.

All in all a brilliant day out but I would suggest waiting for some warmer weather so you can take full advantage of the dazzling grounds. It might even be worth waiting for one of their summer evening concerts and packing a delicious picnic, a couple of bottles of wine and inviting a few friends along who appreciate 80s power ballads.

Mr Bingley’s rating:

Mr Bingley decided to split the scores between house and garden as a combined score just didn’t do the gardens justice in this event.

House:5/10

Garden:9/10

The Special Places Project - Have Your Say

The National Trust have joined up with The Times and The Sunday Times for their Special Places Project.

If there is anywhere in the country that you consider special then you can and should enter.

The Trust want you, the public, to come up with photos of your chosen special location and the reason behind your choice. It doesn’t matter what the back-story is, as long as it’s special to you.

I know that I have places that help me unwind; some places just have an intense sense of calm and silence which seem to act as a form of meditation for me. Some places help you see things in perspective and give you a feeling of serenity.

But, special places don’t all have to be about silence, serenity and wait for it… inner peace. Some places are all about nostalgia, childhood memories, memories of a loved one or just somewhere that has a café with good grub, some half decent shops and a good ice-cream van. It could even be a pub, a house, a church; there’s no rulebook. It’s your place and you can decide.

I’ve chosen somewhere near where I was brought up. Somewhere I associate with lazy holidays, long ambling walks and believe it or not, warm and hazy summer days. The South West Coast Path and Lulworth Cove is a very special place to me and was one of the first places I took Mr Bingley when he came to visit me at home. 

The views stretch for miles and the coastline just keeps on going, stretching out ahead of you. There’s something about this that makes me feel extremely tranquil and satisfied. I’ve no idea why, it could just be that I like following the meandering coastline as it winds its way along the sea with the regular ebb and flow of the tide.

It looks as though I’m one of many who find the Wessex coastline inspiring as it’s currently rating the highest for the public’s chosen spots but it’s still early days so you should definitely have your say and enter.

If you do choose to enter you could win a photo-shoot at your selected place and a stay in a National Trust Holiday Cottage. On top of all this you can be safe in the knowledge that other people will have been introduced to your special place and will be as captivated as you are.

Where will you choose?

You can enter through The Special Places Project Facebook App here by the 6^th May 2013.

A Visit to Hardwick Hall

This weekend me and my companion (called Mr Bingley from here on in) decided to head down to Derbyshire to visit Hardwick Hall.

This visit was inspired by my recent reading of Phillipa Gregory’s novel ‘The Other Queen’ about the Earl of Shrewsbury and his formidable wife Bess of Hardwick's care of the captive Mary Queen of Scots. The book’s pace is a slow trudge and nothing really happens but it did introduce me to a fascinating Elizabethan lady; Bess of Hardwick (pictured).

I was expecting an unassuming country manor but instead was met by a glorious Elizabethan statement in fashion and flamboyance.

Pictured: New Hardwick Hall

Instead of just one house there was a new hall and an old hall, some compact but impressive gardens and a number of parkland walks with fabulous views of the valley (and the M1)…

Remember if you aren’t a member of the National Trust or English Heritage then you will need to buy extra tickets for the Old Hall. I felt this was extremely cheeky but they provide you with a free audio tour and the views and existing plasterwork are stunning.

So to the facts and figures:

Getting there:

Easy peasy, straight off the M1 at Junction 29 and well signposted.

Information:

Free audio tours at the old hall and guide books and audio tours available at a small price at the new hall. We didn’t take these – I like to enjoy the atmosphere of the house instead of listening to some hoarse woman harping in my ear about medieval toilet facilities. Mr Bingley nods in agreement.

There are seminars and talks throughout each day subject to ticket availability and a number of events throughout the season. You might be interested in the Stone Carving Days and ‘Painting Pebbles and Pots’ event. I wasn't;  I thought they sounded awfully drab but the Murder Mystery night with a themed three course meal and Food Market celebrating local Derbyshire produce sounded brilliant. 

Pictured: Remaining plasterwork in Old Hall

Best Bits:

Pictured: Tapestries in the New Hall

The ‘Fifty Shades of Bluey Grey’ leaflet about the more adult themes in the house’s tapestries was a good find. Mr Bingley evidently enjoyed these and was particularly over-zealous in seeking them out; well-endowed women being groped by lascivious rogues seemed to be a common theme. Tearing Mr Bingley away from these to instead inspect Turkish carpets proved especially difficult.

Worst Bits:

Having to pay extra for the Old Hall was a disappointment. If you are not a member of the National Trust or English Heritage and are desperate to visit this interesting ruin then the excursion could prove rather expensive.

Kids:

Yes, sadly there were a number of them present. However there was so much for them to do in each room and in the gardens that they didn't irritate me in the slightest.

There was a children’s treasure hunt throughout the house and gardens and a box of children’s activities in every room. These included quick quizzes about the house and its inhabitants, dressing up boxes to play lord and lady of the manor and even a ‘Make a Mud pie’ competition outside.

The property also provides baby slings and carrying seats for infants as well as baby changing and feeding facilities including bottle warming.

Facilities:

There was a garden centre, shop and barn café which stocked the usual delectable cakes and pastries. The shop was also filled with local meat and dairy products as well as the usual scrummy National Trust biscuits and chutneys.

Interesting Fact:

Hardwick Hall featured in the Harry Potter films as Draco Malfoy’s home, Malfoy Manor. Fascinating…

Not only was it featured in the Harry Potter films but one of the Dukes (I forget which one) used the Long Gallery on the top floor for dog racing. We were told that historians know this as a dark brown stain in the corner of the room was testament to dog’s cocking their legs post-race.

Mr Bingley found this far more fascinating than its film credentials and spent the next twenty minutes searching for the afore-mentioned stain.

Overall:

Pictured: Portrait of Elizabeth I

We had a really great day, the architecture of the house is striking and the wealth of Bess the original owner is apparent in the plasterwork, tapestries, fireplaces and the almost floor to ceiling windows, leading to the local Tudor rhyme ‘Hardwick Hall more glass than wall.’ They also have an excellent art collection and the portrait of Queen Elizabeth was a great surprise as it’s one we had never seen before.

The activities for the kids were exceptional and as a family day out I just couldn’t fault it. Plus if you are making a weekend of it then it’s only a short drive to Chatsworth, Bolsover Castle, Sherwood Forest and a walk to another National Trust property, Stainsby Mill.

All in all a great place to take the family or friends for a sight-seeing day and plenty to do over a long weekend stay. I will definitely be back at some point in the future to take in the parkland walks but I think I’ll wait for some warmer weather.

Mr Bingley’s Rating: 8.5/10

Fact or Fiction?

I like history; I like history a lot.

Especially when it's tied into literature or any kind of fiction. My love for this has developed into a great passion for the country house; a true British symbol.

Whether you believe in what it stands for, or stood for or not, you can't deny it's symbolism. You can't deny a beautiful house's ability to unleash the imagination and place you amidst some of Britain's best loved historical and literary figures (Robert Dudley and Jane Eyre to name some of my personal favourites) or even our more recent TV stalwarts like the Dowager Countess Grantham.

Whether you read Austen for a pastime, consider yourself a budding Tudor historian or just watch Downton Abbey with a Chinese on a Friday night it makes no odds. Whether you visit to indulge in a little fact or fiction; everyone can enjoy a stately home and gardens.

You can go there to discover the story behind it, to appreciate the art it houses, the extravagant gardens and plush interiors. Or, as I often do, purely to imagine myself as Lizzie Bennett on the search for my own Mr Darcy amongst the pretentious amateur photographers that inevitably hog all the best camera shots with their stupidly oversized tripods...